Travels

Zakynthos: places, stories and suggestions

Zakynthos island, also known as Zante, was the destination of my holiday in August 2017.

Most of you will have already seen the picture of the Navagio beach or at least heard of it. Despite the island’s reputation, it was not easy for me to find a good overview of what to do once I’ll be arrived here.

I will try to be quite exhaustive regarding the fundamental notions. I will skip some subjects on purpose, if you have any doubts you can contact me here.

Let’s start with a brief introduction to the Island, then I’ll give you some suggestions about accommodation, places and activities.

Short history

The island is located in the Mediterranean Sea, in the archipelago of the Ionian Islands, in the western part of Greece.

Populated since the Neolithic, the first literary traces of Zante are within the Homeric poems. Among the various historical events, certainly the most evident today, is the colonization by the Venetians from 1484 to 1797. There are many signs of the passage of this people:

  • its nickname, “To fiore tou Levante” (“The flower of the Levant”)
  • the presence of typical Venetian architecture. It was nice to get lost in the city of Zakynthos, and in other inhabited centers, observing historical buildings present allover the island

Many Italians also know this island for the Pre-Romantic sonnet written by Ugo Foscolo in 1803: To Zakynthos.

Today Zante is a popular tourist destination for its sea, its beaches, its marine fauna and, among the youngest, the low-cost alcoholic beverages in Laganas.

I don’t want to copy long and boring texts from books or other internet sites. If you want more in-depth news, here you will find some links that can help you. The Wikipedia page, useful to learn more about history. The map will help you locate the island geographically, while the suggested website offers a good selection of information regarding the island.

Basic information

Before we getting into on our new journey, there are few basic things to know about Zante:

  1. Drink ONLY water from sealed bottles. Most hotels offers large water dispensers, like those you can find workplaces. DO NOT drink water from those distributors, it is marine water purified on the island and not drinkable for tourists
  2. Respect the animals! Allover the islands you will find small wooden structures that protect the turtles’ eggs. These animals lay their eggs on all the sandy beaches of the island and it is important to preserve them. This note could seem obvious, but when I met the first turtle from the boat that I rented together with other friends, it was really amazing watching her swimming below us. I recommend visiting the Turtle Center / Museum, to better understand how to respect them and how to avoid small actions that can damage their life.
  3. Waste your rubbish inside trash-bins, unfortunately this beautiful island is very polluted due to the rubbish left everywhere. Why don’t you try to leave it as clean as or, why not, better than you will find it!

Overview

Two faces of the island: what? Yes, Zante offers two different faces:

  1. Relax, nature, beaches and landscapes
  2. Nightlife and low price (and quality) alcoholics

Depends on your choose. You can easily see only one of the two faces just explained.

Party nights

If you prefer nightlife (I am talking to young people from 16 to 26) just go to Laganas! In this real Land of Toys, you will easily find all kinds of nightlife fun. I found a lot of posts of pub and discos offering cocktails for 2.00€ and shots for 0.50€. The quality of alcohol is very low and, looking on the internet, there are many articles that tell of kids being intoxicated by strange cocktails sold here.

So have fun, but watch what you drink.

On the peninsula to the east of Laganas and south of the city of Zakynthos town, many beaches offer evening and all-day entertainment. If you can’t stay without a drink and music on the beach, you’ll probably find something interesting here.

Regenerating calmness

If you came here looking for a relaxing vacation, sun, sea and nature, I recommend you to wake up early and visit wild places almost everywhere outside Laganas.

The South-West. In the Keri area, it’s possible to rent a boat to reach the island of Marathonissi, various bays and the neighboring beaches. In the port area there are a couple of diving, for those interested in exploring the seabed. If you prefer to stay on the land, I recommend Keri sunset, for a drink, during the colorful sunsets.

The strip of land on the South-East, offers long sandy beaches like Gerakas, Dafni and other points of interest.

The East coast, starting from Tsilivi, passing through Xigia and bring us to the North with its Blue Caves passing by long beaches, coves and thermal waters surrounded by a crystalline sea.

To the North West you will find Navagio, the famous shipwreck beach!

Going down the West coast, there are many bays to visit, Porto Vromi, is one of these. I have visited many of these coves just passing through because they are a little awkward to reach. Remember to well check distances before leaving your hotel because there is no road that follows the coast and the journey may become quite long.

Plan you trip

I would suggest you to divide your exploration over at least five days:

  1. First thing when you arrive, visit the South-East area and the city of Zakynthos. Here you can buy tickets for the coming day
  2. A boat trip around the island sounds like a good suggestion to me. This is the best way to see places where to go in the following days
  3. The East-Coast and the North
  4. The West-Coast
  5. The South-West and the Keri area
Map of Zakynthos by TheodorATW

Food

There are many good quality restaurants in Zakynthos. Fish and other Greek specialties will be at your disposal at reasonable prices for lunch and dinner.

I recommend you to search on TripAdvisor for local restaurants, I have always relied on this tool and it didn’t disappointed me.

The typical local dishes are similar to those of the rest of Greece: yogurt, cheese, salads, meat, fish, etc …

  • I was lucky because, the village where I stayed, often prepared spit and other types of meat. In another situation I would not resist to restaurants that offer the skewered meat.
  • Fish dishes are obviously another specialty. I tasted some local fish dishes for lunch at Dafni and it worthed the price. Dishes I choose had a great attention to presentation and flavor. The bill was a bit more expensive than average but justified by the quality and location of the restaurant.

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Sweet or salty breakfast? OK, both… 💪

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Lodging

As in all tourist destinations, there is a multitude of different accommodation type available.

There are many hotels and most of them offer all-inclusive packages. Make some consideration about what type of vacation you are looking for before booking the hotel. By reading the introduction part of this article you will have targeted which area to choose and which formula to use. Regarding the type of treatment, consider that a meal in a restaurant is generally cheap and if you want to visit the island you will often have lunch outside of your hotel.

B&Bs are available almost everywhere, even in less crowded areas. They are not advertised as mush as in Croatia or Cuba, so I recommend using AirBnb or Homeway.

The island also offers facilities for camping enthusiasts. Then the more adventurous, while I was walking in search of a rock where I could lay on the sun, I noticed some tourists making free camping. In this case I can’t tell you whether it’s allowed or not.

My choice: my consideration was that I was on a relatively small island, so I booked at the all-inclusive Keri Village & Spa resort. It is not a luxury resort, but offers everything you need for a good staying. Normally I would have chosen other types of accommodation. In this case I felt comfortable here, despite if I spent most of the time outside the village and did not make full use of all available services and the all-inclusive formula.

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Waiting for the return flight

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Transportations

Offers to visit the island flourish almost everywhere between shops and kiosks. There are tour packages for tours  or there are many car and motorcycle rental agencies.

Are you looking for freedom and a quietness, away from the crowd, renting your own conveyance will be the best solution.

Cars

The car was my first choice as a conveyance. Looking at the period it is generally not recommended renting a scooter due to the many careless drivers. In August here, as in all the Mediterranean islands, it is difficult to find a car to rent and when you will find it, it will be really expensive. After about an hour of internet searches and phone calls, I was able to book a car at a price I thought was appropriate. I went to the rentals to pay and collect the car, but when I saw the bill it was much more expensive than agreed without any valid explanation. I gave back the bill and I decide not to pick up the car and go back into my research.

Scooter

After the car experience, walking around Keri Beach, I found a good guy who rent cars and scooters. He had finished the cars too, so he offered me an Aprilia SR 125 in very good conditions. After some negotiation I closed the deal. Unlike many others, he told me that I had no limitations on places to visit. The only flaw of that lease was that it was not possible to activate a Kasko on the vehicle. The guy managed to convince me by giving me a couple of simple tips to preserve the scooter: pay attention to where you park and drive carefully (the road is generally in an acceptable condition but in some places it is easy to slip away).

Driving the scooter, I found myself a couple of times having to counter-position to recover the rear wheel that, suddenly, slid on the asphalt of the turns most frequented by work vehicles. Despite some thrills like that, I rode the SR for 7 days without any problems.

If you decide to rent one, drive carefully and slow down before entering into turns.

Quads

Most tourists rent quads. They are more stable than scooters, safer and even more fun. They have only a small contraindication: they are extremely slow …

Tours

Usually I prefer to move independently, to explore the less traveled and less crowded areas. As already mentioned, in this journey I broke some of my rules. In Zakynthos organized tours have their usefulness, they allowed me, by investing a day in the boat, to steal all the information I had not found on the internet.

I booked a tour all around the island, from a kiosk that I found while walking in the port of Zakynthos town. This was the only tour package I bought: too many people on the ship and too little space. It was however a good starting point to understand the morphology of the island.

Boat trip

I think that you have already understood from the introduction to this section, I’ve also been into this crowded adventure. I boated from the port of Zakynthos aboard the Top Cruiser boat to circumnavigate the island. The journey lasted all day, from 9:30 am to 5:15 pm and we visited all the major beaches and caves of the island. When I was back I had a clear view about which areas was worth to visit in the following days.

Glass bottom

Typical tour offered almost everywhere. It consists of boats with glass bottoms, these boats allow you to observe the seabed without having to dive. I preferred to snorkel and dive in the Keri Caves, otherwise this would have been a great alternative.

If you are interested in the tour, the link below refers to the website of the agency that I used to book my tour:

Places to see

Zakynthos offers many spectacular places to visit, I had the pleasure of visiting most of them from different perspectives. I drove the scooter to the top of the highest peaks, I landed in the boat on the most beautiful beaches and, as a diver, I explored the seabed.

When I was riding the scooter, I set myself two main goals: Navagio and Xigia. The rest of the time my exploration method was: point the finger randomly on the map and go. If the path offered something interesting, I just stopped the time needed to appreciate it and ride again. I had guidelines learned during the boat tour but, even if I had traveled randomly it would have been difficult to make mistakes.

Of all the goals, these are the ones have remained the most impressed in my memory.

Landscapes

I am obliged to start from here and the image below will make you understand why. In addition to beaches, crystal clear sea and nature, Zakynthos offers fantastic landscapes to admire. First among all…

The Wikipedia description is much more comprehensive than mine. If you are looking for more information:

The Blue Caves

The same as Navagio, is another place to visit from different perspectives: land and sea.

Coming from the sea you will appreciate the prominence of the caves and its blue water.

If instead you reach the caves from the land, passing through Korithi, the landscape you will find will be wonderful. You have to see it for yourself!

 

The Keri Gulf

Regarding the Keri area, I appreciated the fact that it was wild and not very crowded. Here you will find everything you need to spend a great stay away from the frenzy of the nightlife centers: sea, restaurants, hotels and breathtaking landscapes.

I recommend reserving at least one day, renting a boat to sail the surrounding sea and then ending at the Keri Sunset viewpoint, in the mountains behind the old city.

Keri Caves

I visited the Keri Caves from the cliffs, from the boat and from underwater during my scuba dive. Regarding the boat trip and swimming from the cliffs, in the whole west part of Keri Beach the sea is wonderful and every inlet is a good place where to swim.

Keri Sunset

Ending the day admiring the Keri Sunset is well spent time. Located a few hundred meters after the Keri Lighthouse, from the top of these cliffs you can admire the sunset.

(My picture is awful, live it’s much better)

 

Beaches

Although you will hardly find undeserving beaches, here below I list some that in my opinion it’s worth to see.

Xigia

Famous for its thermal waters rich in sulfur, it is one of the best places that I recommend to see on the island. In addition to the thermal waters, my cycling spirit was captured by the wheel shot in my picture. A cable car, used by the owners of the bar above the beach, to deliver fresh drinks, food and ice creams to bathers.

Marathonissi

Also known as Turtle Island due to its shape and ease of finding turtles in the nearby. This small island has a large sandy beach and other small gravel-covered coves. I didn’t land on the islet because of the crowd, I decided to circumnavigate it and head towards the Caves Keri. Anyway it is nice to see! Here we saw a turtle swimming below our boat. Awesome!

Dafni

The stop in Dafni lasted more than half day. One thing you need to know if you go here by car: you have to pay for the parking.

Once parked the scooter int he Italian way, without paying the park, in the shade of a tree, I started walking along the beach. Here the sea is not very deep and it is possible to walk in the water even tens of meters from the shore. After the long walk, I choose a small restaurant that offers fish specialties and had lunch there. I enjoyed lunchtime, the staff was very friendly and the bill was slightly above the island average but justified.
Gerakas

Located on the tip of the peninsula, south of the city of Zakynthos, this fine sand beach won the TheodorATW award for the most beautiful beach on the island.

Today it is shown abandoned to itself, you can see the signs of its glorious past. The lifeguard stations, ruined by time, are unsafe. The only form of hospitality is a boy who, in a corner of the beach, rents sun beds and umbrellas.

Perhaps also thanks to the decrease in human presence, this is still the turtle’s favorite beach. Hundreds of them come here to lay their eggs. When you decide to visit it, remember to respect wild animals and pay attention to the small wooden structures that protect the eggs!

Other palces

We’ve finished talking about everything I’ve found positive. Let’s see what I’ve forgotten.

Vromi, Roxa and Limnionas harbors

This chain of coves, part of the west coast of the island, was the last one that I explored.

All three places listed in the title are natural harbors. Here the crystal clear water and the cliffs from which to dive will be the focus of your day.

In my case, the thing I appreciated most was driving the scooter along the road that connects these ports with the rest of the island. Then I stopped just few minutes each one.

 

Tsilivi Beach

To conclude this overview about various places that I visited, I will also talk about this place that I appreciated a bit less.

Tsilivi Beach is a long sandy beach that is located near the town of Tsilivi. It was one of the milestones that I marked on my map but then I just passed through here. I just spent few minutes in the center and a peek at the beach. I didn’t even get off the scooter and left at the next stage. It was not the kind of beach I was interested in… many nearby accommodations, equipped beaches, amusement parks and too many people.

Sports

I know, we’re on vacation, but I can’t stay on the beach without doing anything all holiday long. Even riding across the island all day on my scooter, gives me a sense of dissatisfaction. I need to do some sport, so here’s what I invented.

Scuba Dive

Most dive sites are located in the south of the island.

On Dafni beach there is a diving for beginners, they offered me a dive at 6m depth which I kindly refused. So I don’t know about the quality of this 6meters sandy dive.

I dived close to Keri Beach. There are two diving centers, the largest is a bit far from the harbor and it is run by Germans. I chose the smaller one on the Keri Beach harbor. I found it good despite being a lot less crowded than the other one. The guide was really careful and well managed a panic moment of a girl who dived with us. The only less positive point is the equipment, it can be improved, the dispenser that I rent was a bit mushy.

My dive was pretty at a landscape level, we swam along an endless wall that was disappearing into the abyss. Regarding the inhabitants of the seabed instead I was not very satisfied. The sea has been plundered by unregulated fishing for years, only recently the action of fishermen has been limited. When I immersed myself, the population of the seabed was comparable in variety to the Avigliana Lakes.

Cycling

Zante is a gym suitable for road bikes and KoM lovers. If you ride there, I advise you to pay attention to the imperfections of the asphalt and ride your bicycle in the morning when the most crazy people are still sleeping. I enjoyed landscaped and steep climb, so I’d like to come back here to do some bike rides in the future.

Obviously a complete kit to repair basic mechanical failures and punctures is a must, along with food and water.

Running

Sometimes, early in the morning, I went for a run on the hills between Keri Beach and Keri Town. It was around 6:30 / 7:00 a.m. but the sun was already heating the ground. I was lucky because most of my run was a dirt path that ran through olive trees and their shadow was strong enough to freshen my morning run.

Base Jumping

One of the main attractions of the island is Navagio (The Shipwreck Beach), looking for photos and videos of this beach, YouTube (which knows my tastes better than me…) suggested me a series of adrenaline videos. In that way I discovered that Navagio is the Base Jumper‘s paradise.

Browsing through this long list, I discovered a last video where, thanks to the shape of the cliff overlooking the beach, a group of Base Jumpers made a still visible installation for the Rope Base Jumping. Reverse yourself 7 minutes to watch this video and see what I am talking about!

I did not contact the authors of the movie to ask how to do this and try this exciting experience. Go to their site for more information.

Conclusions

In conclusion, if you missed or got bored in my words:

  • Zante is an island that is pleasant and easy to navigate
  • Greek cuisine is also valid for an Italian
  • Tourists are respected, it can therefore be considered a safe destination, always using common sense

Zakynthos is one of those places that we all have to visit at least once in our lives, just remember my suggestions and you will surely live an unforgettable journey.

I can only tell you: “Have fun!”